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> removing phosphatized layer from steel
dave.lister@web.de
Posted: Apr 17 2004, 09:24 PM


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I need to remove the phosphatized top layer from certain parts of
crimping tools. Unfortunately the contact areas were treated with the
rest of the tool. The phosphatizing caused an increase in friction
beyond acceptable values which resulted in 100% failures during the
crimping. The problem is that the multi-part chains are connected by
(oiled) hinges and dust or sludge producing ways to remove it would
need a complete dismantling of the tools, which causes huge costs.
Is there any solvent/visuous substance or something that makes the
phosphatized layer swell that can be applied locally and removed with
something like a q-tip or be sucked away?

This prob is "too inorganic" for me ...thx a lot for any suggestions.
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Uncle Al
Posted: Apr 17 2004, 09:25 PM


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Phosphatizing is not applied like paint. It is bonded and slightly
diffused into the metal itself. I don't see how you could corrode it
off without roughening the surface. I could be wrong. If you squirt
some micronized Teflon bonding lube, (NEVER silicone!), graphite, moly
sulfide, hexagonal boron nitride or other lubes in there you
potentially compromise your crimps.

You know how these things work. There are two ways to do a project -
right and over. Anything done to make a bad situation better
invariably makes it worse. The first step is to find a sacrificial
employee... and avoid being one yourself.

http://www.troyrisk.com/Free%20Documents/ Master%20Env%20Chart.PDF
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Sporkman
Posted: Apr 17 2004, 09:26 PM


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The "Master Environmental Procedure" is an absolute howl, Uncle Al. But
those looking for it need to know to remove the space before the M in
'Master'.
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dave.lister@web.de
Posted: Apr 17 2004, 09:27 PM


Unregistered









> Phosphatizing is not applied like paint. It is bonded and slightly
> diffused into the metal itself. I don't see how you could corrode it
> off without roughening the surface. I could be wrong. If you squirt
> some micronized Teflon bonding lube, (NEVER silicone!), graphite, moly
> sulfide, hexagonal boron nitride or other lubes in there you
> potentially compromise your crimps.

thx for confirming my nightmares :-)

> You know how these things work. There are two ways to do a project -
> right and over. Anything done to make a bad situation better
> invariably makes it worse. The first step is to find a sacrificial
> employee... and avoid being one yourself.

not my project ... pheeew... I'm just the one speaking English

> http://www.troyrisk.com/Free%20Documents/M...Env%20Chart.PDF

LOL
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Matador
Posted: Jan 20 2012, 01:27 PM


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